A single shirt can serve a multitude of vibes depending on how you work the tuck. As most British women will know from their school uniform days, the way you wear your shirt can take it from Poindexter social suicide territory to “hot babe from The Craft” with a few cunning folds. 

 

Image credit: Giphy

 

Let’s take this premise into more grown up territory and explore how a shirt can be elegant and edgy and every in between with a little bit of hem artistry.

 

Here are seven to try.

 

1. The Classic Full Tuck

Let's start with the old faithful, the classic full tuck. 

 

Tuck the entire shirt into your waistband, then pull a little fabric back out so it isn't stretched tightly across your middle.

 

This works particularly well with shirts that have some structure, such as cotton poplin or a neat Oxford shirt. Try it with high-waisted tailored trousers, straight-leg jeans or a midi skirt.

 

It's also a good choice when your trousers have an interesting waistband or belt that you want to show off.

 

Try: The Madelena Shirt in Black Organic Cotton Sateen. It's a tailored cut with a sharp collar, so it sits smoothly under a waistband. 

 

2. The Military Tuck

The military tuck is all about making a shirt sit properly. If your button-down fits beautifully across the shoulders but has a tendency to balloon at the waist, this is the trick to try. Tuck the shirt in normally, then pinch the excess fabric at either side of your waist, fold it backwards and smooth it into the waistband. 

 

It works particularly well with oversized Oxford shirts, boyfriend shirts and crisp cotton shirts. Try it with straight-leg jeans or tailored trousers.

 

Try: The Antoinette Shirt, White Cotton Poplin. The confident androgynous style is just crying out for a crispy military cut. 

 

3. The French Tuck

The French tuck has always been a fashion icon, but it's been elevated to even loftier heights by Tan France’s dedication on Queer Eye.

 

Tuck just the centre front into your waistband and leave the sides and back loose. There's no need to worry too much about total symmetry as a little relaxed irregularity is part of the appeal.

 

This works particularly well with soft, oversized or relaxed shirts rather than anything too stiff.

 

Pair it with straight-leg jeans, relaxed trousers or a denim skirt for a casual outfit that still has some definition.

 

Try: The Max Blue & White Stripe Relaxed Fit Cotton Poplin Shirt. The wide, relaxed shape and box pleat give you plenty of fabric to play with, while the stripe makes the loose sides look deliberate rather than forgotten.

 

4. The Asymmetric Tuck

This is one for when you want to do something slightly different.

 

Instead of tucking the centre of the shirt, take one side of the front and tuck it into your waistband, leaving the other side loose.

 

The resulting diagonal line breaks up the shirt's volume and gives an oversized shape a bit more interest.

 

It's particularly good with longer, boxy shirts that might otherwise feel a little overwhelming.

 

Wear it with wide-leg trousers or straight jeans. Keep the rest of the outfit relatively simple so the unusual shape of the shirt gets to do the talking.

 

Try: Karly in Yellow Organic Cotton Poplin. The relaxed fit gives you enough fabric to tuck one side and let the other fall and the colour adds to the fun.

 

5. The Twist Tuck

The twist tuck is a little more playful and particularly useful when you want to give a roomy shirt some shape.

 

Take the front section of your shirt, twist it once and tuck the twisted portion into your waistband. You can do this at the centre or slightly off to one side.

 

The twist creates a small amount of texture and gathers the fabric rather than simply flattening it against your body.

 

This works best with soft, lightweight shirts that have enough fabric to twist — think viscose, lightweight cotton or linen. A very stiff shirt won't cooperate quite so readily.

 

Pair it with high-waisted jeans, trousers or a simple skirt.

 

Try: The Colleen Shirt in Blue & White Stripe Cotton Poplin. Poplin has enough body to hold a twist, and the stripe makes the twist look extra delicious. 

 

6. The Bralet Tuck

This is a clever trick if you want a cropped shirt without getting snip happy with the fabric scissors and a liberal dose of regret. Put on a fitted bralet or bandeau underneath, then tuck sections of the shirt's hem up and underneath the lower edge of the bralet. The shirt gathers across the front while the bralet holds everything in place, creating a softly cropped shape.

 

It works particularly well with oversized linen, cotton or lightweight button-downs and can be worn with high-waisted jeans, wide-leg trousers or a slip skirt. 

 

Try: The Catalina Shirt in Cotton Linen. The lightweight, relaxed linen folds up neatly, and the frilly colour suits the cute, casual vibe. 

7. The Back Tuck

This one is more about controlling the shape of a shirt than creating a visible tuck.

 

If you have a long or oversized shirt, tuck some of the back hem into your waistband while leaving the front loose.

 

It can take away some of the excess length and volume at the back while allowing the front of the shirt to fall naturally.

 

This is particularly useful for oversized cotton shirts, men's-style button-downs and long linen shirts.

 

Try it with slim or straight-leg trousers if you want to balance a generous shirt, or with wide-leg trousers if you want to embrace the volume.

 

Try: The oversized Ana Shirt in White Cotton Poplin. The oversized cut is perfect for a floaty front and the crease-resistant fabric means it won’t wrinkle behind your back (quite literally). 

 

Which Tuck Should You Try?

 

Not sure where to start? Let the occasion choose for you. For the office, the full tuck is the dependable classic: tuck the hem in all the way around and let the shirt blouse slightly over the waistband for a smooth, polished line which is a perennial classic with tailored trousers or a pencil skirt. 

 

If you need everything to stay put through a long day of meetings or a formal event, the military tuck is your answer. Pull the shirt down firmly, smooth the front and back, and fold the excess neatly at the sides for a flat, precise finish that works best in crisp fabrics. 

 

For weekend ease, try the asymmetric tuck: tuck in just one side and let the other fall, which looks effortlessly undone with jeans and a relaxed-fit shirt. 

 

If you want a little shape without fuss, the twist tuck gathers the front hem into a neat twist before it goes into your waistband, adding definition to straighter silhouettes and pairing well with high-waisted denim or trousers. 

 

On balmy days, the bralet tuck, where you fold the hem up into a bralet for a cropped, cooler silhouette, is ideal for holidays, warm evenings and light, breezy fabrics. 

 

Finally,  when you want a casual, slightly undone finish, the back tuck, with the back hem tucked away and the front left loose, is a quick way to add polish to an oversized shirt worn with jeans or a skirt.

 

Expert Level Tucking Trick

 

Don't judge a tuck from the front alone. Have a wriggle around and see how it looks from all manner of angles. Writhe around.Turn sideways. Sit down. Put your jacket on. Walk around for a minute.

 

A good tuck isn't judged by how it looks standing static in front of the mirror, it’s all about how the shirt looks in motion and the motion it gives the shirt itself. 

 

Treating the hem of a shirt as a feature and not an afterthought is a surefire way to elevate your shirting